Like all woodturners, I have my favorite "go-to" tools and products. These are the things that I use the most and have found to be the most effective for the type of turning that I do on a regular basis. In this section I will list some of those tools and products with a few comments and my sources for purchasing. Feel free to contact me with any questions.

Kelton Multi-Axis Scraper

Let me start by saying that though I have a multitude of scrapers in my shop, I have not generally considered myself a scraper fan, but to my surprise, this tool has changed that view.

This scraper impressed me with it's versatility. I have found nothing quite like it on the market today. The fact that it is nearly infinitely adjustable for any combination of shear angle and rake allows me to find just the right setting for the particular piece of work at hand, no matter how troublesome the grain. I find the mass is extremely effective in dampening any vibration, even when well extended over the tool rest for such tasks as removing the nub in the bottom of a form. The ability to use it on the machined flats at any shear and rake angle affords a great deal of control. Using it on the round is also useful when one must adjust the shear on the fly according to the shape and grain of the work piece. The cutter is well designed and seems to hold a burr for an exceptionally long time. I use the tool on both the inside and outside of bowls and hollow forms and find it to be equally effective in either case. In my case, I use it more for finishing cuts, though it can also be used to take much heavier cuts.

As with many new tools, there is a bit of a learning curve to get the "hang" of this tool and discover which settings work best on a particular piece of wood, but this knowledge comes fairly quickly with use. This tool is fairly new so check the Kelton website for retailers.

Kelton Hollowers

The Kelton hollowers have been my favorites for hollowing for a long time. They are the essence of simplicity, easy to keep sharp and are capable of everything from hogging out waste to taking very fine finishing cuts. They are available in 4 sizes: 5/16, 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 inches and can be purchased individually or in sets. A set consists of 3 profiles: straight, soft curve and tight curve. There is not a lot that you can't reach with these three configurations. You don't need to abuse these tools on a grinder! Only rarely, when a couple of swipes with a hard Arkansas Stone is no longer sufficient and the edge truly needs refreshing. And please...don't grind the top surface! This is a layer of special steel and if you grind it away, you will destroy your hollowers. I also use these tools, which ship unhandled, in the Kelton ER handle system.

Kelton ER Handle System

So what's this ER Handle System I've been raving about? Well it's by far the best interchangeable handle system I have ever used. It is a true colleted system - no set screws, no allen wrenches, no marring of the tool shaft with set screws, no hassle! Simple hand tightening/loosening of the knurled collet nut is all it takes to secure or release the tool. While the ER16 and ER25 can be purchased separately, the system consists of both handles and a torque arresting handle that can be attached to the side of the ER25. Each handle comes with two collets to fit the most common sizes of tool shanks. ER16 includes 8 mm and 10 mm collets and the ER25 includes 13 mm and 16 mm collets. With a clampng range of 1 mm, these four collets accomodate a broad range of tool shanks by different manufacturers, but additional collets are universally available in about any size you could need, either Metric or Imperial. With the complete system, you actually get 3 handles since the ER16 can be used as an extension on the ER25. (Update: As of June, 2011 the new version of these handles allows the TAH to be used as an extension on the ER 16 and ER25).There is also a dedicated compartment in the ER25 for adding additional weight if desired. Gouges can be inverted in the handles for safety and convenience during transport. The grip is a nice material that is neither too mushy nor too hard. It allows for a lighter grip which is really nice for those who may have some arthritis or other problems in their hands, wrists or arms. I have been able to hollow deeper vessels free hand with this system than with any other since the torque arresting handle provides much more control. At this writing, the handles are currently available in the USA through Woodworkers Emporium. Check the Kelton website for an updated USA retailer list and for distributors in other countries.

McNaughton M8 Center Saver

Often I will have some pieces of nice wood that I really don't want to turn into one bowl and a lot of wasted shavings on my shop floor. In these cases I turn to the McNaughton Center Saver. The McNaughton M8 is, in my opinion, the most versatile of all the coring rigs currently on the market. I can core shapes from a deep vase to a platter and almost any sort of bowl in between. As with many tools, there is a bit of a learning curve with the system, but if you pay attention to the setup, relax, and let the tool do the work instead of trying to force it, it's only a matter of a bit of practice before you're coring without even having to think about it that much. This is NOT a tool that requires brute force! It takes a bit of practice to learn what blade and entry angle to choose, but after that it's a matter of learning how to feel when to give the blade a bit of a push, when to let it run or when to hold it back. Mike Mahoney has an excellent DVD on the use of the system which I highly recommend. Be sure you get the Second Edition. The Standard System comes with four blades: straight, large radius, medium radius and small radius. Additional blades are available in large, small and mini. There is even a Jumbo System if you are inclined towards even larger stuff.

Thompson Gouges

Doug Thompson's gouges from Thompson Lathe Tools have become my gouges of choice. They are excellent steel, hold an edge for a good while and are reasonably priced. His detail gouges simply cannot be beat in my opinion. The tools come unhandled, and I use them in my Kelton ER handle system, but they will fit in most handles on the market or you can make your own. When ordering Dougs gouges, note that the size is the steel diameter, NOT the flute width, so if you want a Thompson gouge, for example, that is the equivalent size to a Sorby 3/8" gouge you would order a 1/2" Thompson (1/2" dia. steel with 3/8" flute).

Norton Dry Ice Sanding Disks

Having tried a ton of different sanding disks, these are the ones I keep coming back to. These ceramic disks are super flexible yet strong and seem to outlast most of the other abrasives I have tried. My local source for this abrasive is The Sanding Glove.

Klean-Strip Two Part Wood Bleach

Sometimes I want to lighten the wood on a project, especially if it's Holly, Maple or other naturally light colored wood. The only product I have found that will do this reasonably well is Klean-Strip Wood Bleach. You may have to hunt for it. I have been able to buy it at my local Ace Hardware store.

Waterlox Original Finish

This is just about the only finish I use. I find that I can achieve anything from a matte to a satin to a gloss, depending on how many coats I use and how I apply it. It's a little pricey and if you are not careful it will gel in the can after it's opened, so buy it in small quantities if you are not a heavy user. Decant just enough for your project, spray a bit of Bloxygen in the can and replace BOTH the inner and outer lids immediately. Store the can in a cool place. Waterlox will impart a slight amber tone to the wood. To minimize this, I will sometimes seal the wood first with a 50/50 solution of lacquer and lacquer thinner. Wipe it as dry as you can immediately then let it dry completely before applying your Waterlox. Waterlox can be found at most woodworking stores like Woodcraft.

Velvit Oil Aqua Shield

This is a durable, fast drying, clear, water based crosslinking poly. It will not change the color of the wood. Excellent for bleached or light colored woods. Available in gloss and satin. As with any waterbased finish, do not use steel wool. I get mine from Barb Gill at Velvit Products.


		Like all woodturners, I have my favorite "go-to" tools and products. These are the things that I use the most and have found to be the most effective for the type of turning that I do on a regular basis. In this section I will list some of those tools and products with a few comments and my sources for purchasing. Feel free to contact me with any questions. Kelton Multi-Axis Scraper Let me start by saying that though I have a multitude of scrapers in my shop, I have not generally considered myself a scraper fan, but to my surprise, this tool has changed that view. This scraper impressed me with it's versatility. I have found nothing quite like it on the market today. The fact that it is nearly infinitely adjustable for any combination of shear angle and rake allows me to find just the right setting for the particular piece of work at hand, no matter how troublesome the grain. I find the mass is extremely effective in dampening any vibration, even when well extended over the tool rest for such tasks as removing the nub in the bottom of a form. The ability to use it on the machined flats at any shear and rake angle affords a great deal of control. Using it on the round is also useful when one must adjust the shear on the fly according to the shape and grain of the work piece. The cutter is well designed and seems to hold a burr for an exceptionally long time. I use the tool on both the inside and outside of bowls and hollow forms and find it to be equally effective in either case. In my case, I use it more for finishing cuts, though it can also be used to take much heavier cuts. As with many new tools, there is a bit of a learning curve to get the "hang" of this tool and discover which settings work best on a particular piece of wood, but this knowledge comes fairly quickly with use. This tool is fairly new so check the Kelton website for retailers. Kelton Hollowers The Kelton hollowers have been my favorites for hollowing for a long time. They are the essence of simplicity, easy to keep sharp and are capable of everything from hogging out waste to taking very fine finishing cuts. They are available in 4 sizes: 5/16, 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 inches and can be purchased individually or in sets. A set consists of 3 profiles: straight, soft curve and tight curve. There is not a lot that you can't reach with these three configurations. You don't need to abuse these tools on a grinder! Only rarely, when a couple of swipes with a hard Arkansas Stone is no longer sufficient and the edge truly needs refreshing. And please...don't grind the top surface! This is a layer of special steel and if you grind it away, you will destroy your hollowers. I also use these tools, which ship unhandled, in the Kelton ER handle system. Kelton ER Handle System So what's this ER Handle System I've been raving about? Well it's by far the best interchangeable handle system I have ever used. It is a true colleted system - no set screws, no allen wrenches, no marring of the tool shaft with set screws, no hassle! Simple hand tightening/loosening of the knurled collet nut is all it takes to secure or release the tool. While the ER16 and ER25 can be purchased separately, the system consists of both handles and a torque arresting handle that can be attached to the side of the ER25. Each handle comes with two collets to fit the most common sizes of tool shanks. ER16 includes 8 mm and 10 mm collets and the ER25 includes 13 mm and 16 mm collets. With a clampng range of 1 mm, these four collets accomodate a broad range of tool shanks by different manufacturers, but additional collets are universally available in about any size you could need, either Metric or Imperial. With the complete system, you actually get 3 handles since the ER16 can be used as an extension on the ER25. (Update: As of June, 2011 the new version of these handles allows the TAH to be used as an extension on the ER 16 and ER25).There is also a dedicated compartment in the ER25 for adding additional weight if desired. Gouges can be inverted in the handles for safety and convenience during transport. The grip is a nice material that is neither too mushy nor too hard. It allows for a lighter grip which is really nice for those who may have some arthritis or other problems in their hands, wrists or arms. I have been able to hollow deeper vessels free hand with this system than with any other since the torque arresting handle provides much more control. At this writing, the handles are currently available in the USA through Woodworkers Emporium. Check the Kelton website for an updated USA retailer list and for distributors in other countries. McNaughton M8 Center Saver Often I will have some pieces of nice wood that I really don't want to turn into one bowl and a lot of wasted shavings on my shop floor. In these cases I turn to the McNaughton Center Saver. The McNaughton M8 is, in my opinion, the most versatile of all the coring rigs currently on the market. I can core shapes from a deep vase to a platter and almost any sort of bowl in between. As with many tools, there is a bit of a learning curve with the system, but if you pay attention to the setup, relax, and let the tool do the work instead of trying to force it, it's only a matter of a bit of practice before you're coring without even having to think about it that much. This is NOT a tool that requires brute force! It takes a bit of practice to learn what blade and entry angle to choose, but after that it's a matter of learning how to feel when to give the blade a bit of a push, when to let it run or when to hold it back. Mike Mahoney has an excellent DVD on the use of the system which I highly recommend. Be sure you get the Second Edition. The Standard System comes with four blades: straight, large radius, medium radius and small radius. Additional blades are available in large, small and mini. There is even a Jumbo System if you are inclined towards even larger stuff. Thompson Gouges Doug Thompson's gouges from Thompson Lathe Tools have become my gouges of choice. They are excellent steel, hold an edge for a good while and are reasonably priced. His detail gouges simply cannot be beat in my opinion. The tools come unhandled, and I use them in my Kelton ER handle system, but they will fit in most handles on the market or you can make your own. When ordering Dougs gouges, note that the size is the steel diameter, NOT the flute width, so if you want a Thompson gouge, for example, that is the equivalent size to a Sorby 3/8" gouge you would order a 1/2" Thompson (1/2" dia. steel with 3/8" flute). Norton Dry Ice Sanding Disks Having tried a ton of different sanding disks, these are the ones I keep coming back to. These ceramic disks are super flexible yet strong and seem to outlast most of the other abrasives I have tried. My local source for this abrasive is The Sanding Glove. Klean-Strip Two Part Wood Bleach Sometimes I want to lighten the wood on a project, especially if it's Holly, Maple or other naturally light colored wood. The only product I have found that will do this reasonably well is Klean-Strip Wood Bleach. You may have to hunt for it. I have been able to buy it at my local Ace Hardware store. Waterlox Original Finish This is just about the only finish I use. I find that I can achieve anything from a matte to a satin to a gloss, depending on how many coats I use and how I apply it. It's a little pricey and if you are not careful it will gel in the can after it's opened, so buy it in small quantities if you are not a heavy user. Decant just enough for your project, spray a bit of Bloxygen in the can and replace BOTH the inner and outer lids immediately. Store the can in a cool place. Waterlox will impart a slight amber tone to the wood. To minimize this, I will sometimes seal the wood first with a 50/50 solution of lacquer and lacquer thinner. Wipe it as dry as you can immediately then let it dry completely before applying your Waterlox. Waterlox can be found at most woodworking stores like Woodcraft. Velvit Oil Aqua Shield This is a durable, fast drying, clear, water based crosslinking poly. It will not change the color of the wood. Excellent for bleached or light colored woods. Available in gloss and satin. As with any waterbased finish, do not use steel wool. I get mine from Barb Gill at Velvit Products. Back to Top
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